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Thread: Volvo heat exchangers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Maryland
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    958

    Default Volvo heat exchangers

    Cleaned my heat exchangers before re-installing during the head gasket change, seems 30% were choked with scale / buildup. she should run at optimum temp now. Worth the effort to rod each passage with the gun cleaning brush. Flushed and blew all tubes with air for full flow. New thermo stats should also regulate temp for optimum fuel milage.

    Last 2 winterizations, flushed with radiator cleaner, that seems to be a waste of effort.


    2002 KAMD43's

  2. #2
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    Nov 2006
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    Portsmouth RI
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    Radiator cleaner/flush is not strong enough to eat the minerals found in seawater that get caked up in cooling passages. In a closed cooling system (fresh water side) which is what radiator flush is designed for the mineral deposits are minimal as they only came from fresh water. To acid clean a seawater cooling system you need to use much more agressive acid but there is a fine line between acid strength and damage to copper nickle tubes, brazed joints etc. The safest flush for the end user is Rydlyme, yes people will use muriatic acid and cheaper off the shelf acids but they can be dangerous and cause real damage to cooling system parts if exact acid strengths are not maintained. I have yet to punch out or dissasemble a cooler in five seasons now by doing a closed loop Rydlyme flush every other year. Like all acid flushes, the acid eats installed zincs pretty quick so you always want to flush and then replace the zincs or if they are in good shape flush with them removed. Circulating the flushing mix is important to the process, just filling a cooler with Rydlyme or any other flushing acid is not nearly as effective as closed loop flushing which has a great advantage because you are flushing every cooler in the loop in one shot.
    Last edited by Patriot; 05-23-2011 at 07:42 AM.
    NIGHTHAWK
    2001 CC 28
    Yanmar 300's

  3. #3
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    Jun 2006
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    Berkeley Heights, NJ
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    1,039

    Default

    Another maintenance measure that I think works well if done frequently is to suck through a 5 gallon mixture of neutra salt or saltaway which is safe for the enviroment. I let it sit in the cooling system until the next time I use the boat. It wouldn't remove hard scaling like rydlyme or acid but can help prevent scaling. I do this 3 or 4 times during the season.

    Patriot, when creating the closed loop, what do you use to close off the hose for your water-cooled bearing? Do you test the ph during the process or perhaps just mix it 50-50 and circulate it for a couple of hours and call it a day?
    Bullish
    2002 28
    Volvo Kamd 44p's


  4. #4
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    Oct 2007
    Location
    Marblehead
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    I have found the most important thing is to clean the transmission oil cooler frequently. It's the first cooler in from the intake and gets clogged up with organics quickly and slows the flow down to everything.
    I just take the hoses off and blast a jet of water backwards through them. I can't believe the amount of **** that comes out and it only takes ten minutes to do both motors.
    Ethan D.
    "Fissues II" 2008 CC28
    D6-330's Ex:RedTail
    Marblehead, MA

  5. #5
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    Jun 2007
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    Maryland
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    I have the outdrives, first cooler downstream from pump is the oil cooler, than after cooler for intake, than heat exchanger. Heat exchanger outlet dumps into turbo / exhaust discharge. Do like the idea of flushing with water hose, but that would be a challenge to have access for hose removal prior to sea water pump, at least on the starboard engine.

  6. #6
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    Oct 2011
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    Marshfield, Ma
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    Patriot-
    How do you run the Rydlyme in a closed loop ? Suck from the sea water pick up hose then pump back in to your container from the raw water discharge on the exhaust elbow? Just stay at idle? how many gallons of Rydlyme mixture? How long do you run it for?

    CC25 KAMD44p

    Thanks,
    Chris

  7. #7
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    Dec 2007
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    Springfield, VA Hailing Port: Cape May, NJ
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    Chris,
    Ran Rydlyme through my engines before launching last spring. I have CUMMINS 6BTAs. Ordered 10 gallons and created a closed loop system between the engines. Bypassed the raw water pump and started fluid entry at the fuel cooler of port engine. Connected a hose from port engine turbo exhaust outlet to the fuel cooler on stb engine. Finished the loop with another hose from the stb turbo exhaust to a bucket. Used a normal wash down type pump to draw from the bucket and push to first engine. Pumped first five gallons of Rydlyme at full strength, then added water and 2nd 5 gallons of Rydlyme to the flow as the engines filled. Ran it for about 15 minutes, gave the pump a 5 minute break and then ran again for 15 minutes in cycles until 2 hours passed. It did a great job. Prep was where all the work was to make sure all the hoses sealed (lots of drips at first on the entry and exit connections when I tested with just fresh water). I then replaced a lot of the hoses since the boat was ten years old. The stuff works great and neutralizes its PH over time, so you can just dump it out when you are done. I think the whole thing with the extra hoses I needed cost me about $300 and about 1.5 days of my time. It would be a lot easier to pump it though the intakes Iif you are in dry dock and have the catch bucket under the exhaust outlet, but I thought I was being smarter doing both engines at once.
    Steve
    Reel Freedom
    2000 CC 28
    CUMMINS 6BTAs
    Cape May, NJ

  8. #8
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    Nov 2006
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    CAUTION: You are NOT running the engine for this flush. Although every engine brand is slightly different the principal is the same. You first need to understand the seawater flow through the various cooolers on your engine. The first step is to identify a hose connection after the seawater pump. The next place to look for is right before the raw water goes into the exhaust elbow (again this will typically be a rubber hose connection coming off the last cooler in the loop). Now, this is important; you also have to blank off the seawater going to the shaft seal as you don't want to lose your closed loop solution out the bottom of the boat. I made up a 5 gallon pail with a 12v circulating pump and aquired the various hose connections needed. Most everything you need is at Home Depot except the pump. I punched a hole in the bottom of the bucket and installed a cheap, PVC ball valve there for ease of shut-off. My pump is a little Jabsco bought at West Marine. I rigged it with aligator clips and a simple toggle switch to power it right from a battery. So in the end, you have a pump taking suction from the bottom of the bucket and discharging to a connection you have made on the engine. From the last connection (right before the exhaust elbow) you have another hose connected that just goes into the top of the bucket. Again, don't forget to disconnect and plug the small hose feeding the shaft seal. The beauty of this closed loop system is that it flushes all your coolers at one time. My engines are 2001, have never had a cooler dissasembled and they are clean as a whistle. I flush every two years with Rydlyme. There is quite a bit of flushing and mixture info on the Rydlyme website: http://www.rydlyme.com/home.html



    Quote Originally Posted by The Good Shepherd View Post
    Patriot-
    How do you run the Rydlyme in a closed loop ? Suck from the sea water pick up hose then pump back in to your container from the raw water discharge on the exhaust elbow? Just stay at idle? how many gallons of Rydlyme mixture? How long do you run it for?

    CC25 KAMD44p

    Thanks,
    Chris
    Last edited by Patriot; 12-30-2011 at 06:42 PM.
    NIGHTHAWK
    2001 CC 28
    Yanmar 300's

  9. #9
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Springfield, VA Hailing Port: Cape May, NJ
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    Good point to emphasis Patriot. I did it the same way. I also had disconnected and plugged the small hoses where they connect to my dripless shaft seals thanks to that advice from Bullish (I would not have thought about that). Some of the professional companies come in and pump through the intakes AFTER they remove the raw water impellers from the pumps. Again, pump through the system, not by running the engines to draw it though.
    Steve
    Reel Freedom
    2000 CC 28
    CUMMINS 6BTAs
    Cape May, NJ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Marshfield, Ma
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    Thank you, I'll be doing it in the spring, I think I have an old wash down pump. Its gonna be a headache getting the hoses off the pump the bulkhead is ~ 2" forward.

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