Wolverine pads

[backman]

has anyone put wolverine pads into your 28's to keep the oil pan warmed?

I'm fighting moisture buildup in my engine room and am considering adding them.

What's involved in the install - 110 VAC line back to the panel?

[CC28_NJ]

I've installed them on my 28. I got 2 250watt heaters from Tony, That is what he recommened for my 250's. They work really well and keep then entire engine compartment warm. They do however take a while to do so, maybe a couple days, but I've had no problems with them. I just pluged them into the outlet in the engine compartment.
When it's colder out they really do cut down on the smoke of mechanical diesels. and they start a lot easier. But I was very impressed on how they keep moisture down.

Nick
01 28.

[backman]

ah yes

I forgot about the fact that the newer CC engine rooms have 120 VAC sockets built in.

Am I better off from a maintenance perspective adding a pair of 120 AC sockets or should i cut splice the wolverine cords directly to a piece of duplex running back to the box.

[Split Decision]

Larry

Why don't you look into block heaters. I have then on my cummins and it keeps them just over 100 deg. Seems like it would be a lot easier.

[backman]

Cost?

A Wolverine is ~100$ and I can DIY. A block heater is no doubt a lot more; then we add the 95$/hr for the mechanics * 2 engines and you get my drift....

[xl883lo]

engine room moisture

Forced Air Heat might do an even better job to control moisture in the engine room.

http://www.boatsafeheaters.com/

[tycharle964]

I have the larger boatsafe heater in mine...got it used for 100 bucks or so, never was used though.

I put a 110/120 plug on it and just plug it in when we are done fishing....engines fire right up without using the preheaters and we just remove the thing when we go fishing and store it in the dock box...it is never "hot"

i would not recommend the hassle of installing block heaters or the maintenance they require...with the boatsafe heater, it is like moving a tool box...pretty easy

[Split Decision]

Just looked up the bill for the block heaters. The parts were 104.68 for both heaters. I could not figure out the labor because it was done with other work but they just require draining the coolant down a bit and installing them where a pipe plug was, at least that is how they are on the cummins. Definatly a DIY job. Maybe the volvo's require more but worth looking into. Mine have a 4' pigtail with a plug on the end that I just plug into the outlet in the engine room but could be hardwired.

If they install the same way it would take 1 hr per engine to install yourself.

[CC28_NJ]

I think any type of heat source will be helpful for the moisture in the engine compartment. I prefer block heaters over forced air heat because they keep the oil nice and hot, and cold start up's are non existant. With the 250watt wolverine heaters, I can't touch my oil pan after they have been on for 24 hours. After 2 days the tops of the engines are hot to touch. For the pad heaters there is no maintence at all. Just clean a spot on the oil pan, stick on, seal with rtv,and plug in.

Also I would put a outlet in the engine room if you do not have one, just incase you want to get one of the forced air heaters or hang a light etc.

Nick

[xl883lo]

I think any type of heat source will be helpful for the moisture in the engine compartment. I prefer block heaters over forced air heat because they keep the oil nice and hot, and cold start up's are non existant.

This is true. However, I think there are two different problems with two different "best" solutions. Cold starts-use an engine heater of some sort.....Moisture buildup-use a forced air heater.

I suggested the forced air heater because Backman said he had a moisture problem and did not mention any cold start issues.

[backman]

Where on the oil pan?

Is there a right place or wrong place to mount it?

I'm thinking that if I can mount it on the forward part of each oil pan I can get by with a single 120AC outlet in the forward center of the engine room.

[Sarasea]

I installed the Wolverine pads after the first winter I had my 2001 28'. It helped keep the smoke down a bit on the cold starts (cummins 4B-250's) and it definitely helped control any moisture from condensation.

Aircraft (private and commercial aviation) use oil pan heaters to warm the oil to help with lubrication during initial startup... Hmmm. Maybe we can learn something from the aerospace industry!

FWIW. I leave my heaters on 365 days a year and even in the summer when it is 90 degrees the top of the engine is far from HOT. The pads do not get that hot. I do an oil analysis with each oil change and it has never come back unfavorable so it may not help engine wear but it is certainly not huring anything.

Scott

[Bullish]

I've nevered considered heaters of any kind so need to understand better.

Are cold starts that bad for the engine? The only moisture I have is an inch of water around my pump...is that a concern?

[Sarasea]

Well the data available on cold starts varies but the estimates I have found (doing some R&D work for a UAV using typical 4 stroke gasoline and diesel engines) seems to account for 30% to 60% of engine cylinder wear. This is in-line with some engine manufactures posted data for commercial gasoline powerplants.

Keep in mind introducing warm oil into the mix doesn't completely eliminate all the cold-start engine wear but it reduces it by around 50% to 75% just due to the fact the oil begins to flow through the system that much quicker.

Newer large diesel and turbine engines use an oil prelubrication system to pressurize the system and allow oil to flow prior to ignition. This essentially eliminates the cold start wear issue. Cummins uses this technology on their very large engines (marine and locomotive). If it was cost effective it would be on our engines too.

Scott

[Bullish]

Thanks for insight.