No accessory power

[hammerhead]

Hello all, I did the unthinkable and left the main power switch on for two weeks on my 1997 28. All three batteries went dead, so I put a portable charger on them and was able to start both motors and generator. Problem now is I have no power to all of the accessory switches on the dash and no power to lift the hatch. I know there are fuses in the main pannel under the hatch. Do you think a fuse is blown there or something esle i can check before I Try and lift the hatch manually since i Have heard all the horror stories about doing that. Thanks all Harry

[missprint]

does the light over the main switch come one when you turn it on? if it does not then the selnoid has gone bad and you can try turn it on and off until it comes on and if not try turning all of the switches on like bildge and everything and sometimes that will cause the main selenoid to trigger. if that does not work let me know and think what else it could be.

[hammerhead]

accessory

The main switch does come on, but none of the switches on the dash pannel work at all, I can hear it click when i turn it on. The engines will fire and all power to the pannel on the inside cabin area work, but none of the switches on the dash work, ( cabin lights, flood, wipers etc. ) thanks for the reply Harry

[Capt B]

It must be the selenoid that went bad - you will have to open the hatch manually and open the box containing the selenoids (your poisitive battery cables come out of it and go that box. It contains three selenoids - I can't remember which one feeds the dash. It is pretty easy to replace - but it is a tight fit in there. I'm not sure where your boat is located, but I have an extra selenoid that I obtained from Keith when mine went bad - if you're near Pt. Pleasant, I could meet you on Saturday and help you change it out.

[missprint]

if the light for the main switch comes on then it is not the selenoid . there are a series of fuses that are next to the selenoid that could be the problem and make sure that your buss bars aren't too corroded.

[code blue]

solenoid

Just changed mine, If the solenoid is bad then there would be no power to the main, correct me if wrong, but that is the purpose to make the circuit constant. The clicking noise is the solenoid engaging. the battery switches are seperate as well as the generator so they would not be affected. If you have delays in the main light or the main goes off when load is placed then that sounds like a solenoid issue, mine did this and I spent about 2 hours changing it on the 28 it is tight. The solenoid for the main is the second one in from the starboard side(when facing forward), first if you do not have 4(one for windlass). It definitely looks like you get power to the main, did you check with a voltmeter to all the other switches and main to see what you are reading, could it be your main/house battery is to far gone and not enough amperage to feed the accessories?? They do sell those solenoids at west marine. Let us know.

[hammerhead]

Fixed accessory power

I would like to thank you all for all of your help and knowledge. This site continues to be a great tool in owning these boats. Problem and fix: I guess when the batteries were drained dead by me leaving on the main switch, the fuse by the cellanoid was slighty corroded and when I charged the batteries back up, the power would not pass thru. Cleaned all fuses three total and was back in bussiness. Lifting the hatch wasnt too bad, used a comealong and some straps. I wonder if this is something i should leave on the boat for future problems, possiably offshore. Thanks again for all the input.
Captain B, Thank you for your offer, yes I am located in Point Pleasant boro, and live on a lagoon over here. If you ever need a hand also please feel free to ask anytime. Thank you Harry

[Capt B]

Harry,

Glad it worked out OK for you. I keep the Kimbie II on the Glimmer Glass - directly opposite the drawbridge. She is over in Manasquan River Yacht Club for the winter. If you ever need any assistance - please just ask.

[lrc]

Hammerhead,

I always carry a portable battery pack. With that, I have a Marinco cigarette lighter adapter that can connect to the pack output. The Marinco plugs into the dash accessory jack. It contains a 15 amp slow blow fuse.

With that arrangement you get a shot at opening the hatch without straining anything. My 25 takes two guys to lift the hatch, then you need to prop it open unless a third is in the cabin to swing the hydraulic handle.

Could be worth it's weight in gold. Also doesn't hurt to have spare battery power.