Separ Fuel Filter

[jeannieb]

I have an 06' 25CC with the Volvo D4-260. Factory installed a Separ 2000 primary fuel filter. Replacement filters cost $26 EACH!!!. The other day the filter clogged (after only 60 hours) due to bugs in the fuel. I've been treating the fuel with a maintenance portion of Bio-bore. Two questions for anyone who might know:

1) The boat came equipped with a fuel magnet, is Bio-bore still necessary?

2) Why the devil did the factory install a primary fuel filter with such expensive replacement filters? Seems like the traditional Racors would do just as good a job at 1/4 the price?

Thanks,

Steve

[Split Decision]

When diesel sits it tries to go back into a crude state sort of. That is what the fuel magnet is for. It has nothing to do with cleaning the fuel.You still need the conditioner. Diesel has been lousy this past year because they had to get rid of the supply to make room for the new formulation due out by 2007 I think. I use the Algae X conditioner. Forget the # though. Mac told me about a better conditioner but I forget the name also. Must be an age thing. This other stuff is suppose to be the ticket. When mine is gone I will get the one Mac recomended.

The Separs do a much better job of removing water in the fuel than the Racors. Proven fact. The common rail engines need a 10 micron primary filter and tend to clog a little faster than the 30s used on the mechanical engines.If you get water in that engine, it will self destruct in about 1 min. Not like the mechanical diesels. Trust me on this. I actually added a second Separ on each side. The first has a 30 micron and the second has the 10. They seem to last longer that way. Water sensors on both for backup. I had a bad batch of fuel in the beginning of the season and had to change them after 1 canyon run. Next set lasted 60 hrs or so. Hopefully the fuel will be better next year.

[backman]

Separs

I have them after having had the old racors and like these a lot more. Easier to drain as they fit the space better; the backflush feature allows you to periodically drain them and get the crud out without replacing the filter.

My regimen has been to drain and backflush every 24-36 hr's (2-3 trips) and to replace every 75 or so. The 26$ is short change to me compared to many of the other costs associated with a B.O.A.T.

[bmgbilly]

is the other conditioner AJX PERFECT FUEL PRODUCTS?

[Split Decision]

is the other conditioner AJX PERFECT FUEL PRODUCTS?

I have no idea what it is called. Mac told me about it back in the summer. Would'nt know it if I tripped over it.

[bmgbilly]

i spoke with him at a.c. in-water about fuels and he mentioned this product which eats algae not just kills it then eventually lays in the bottom of the tank. he's always a wealth of knowledge.

[Split Decision]

Thats probably the stuff. He said a guy down in the islands was changing his filters every fillup. Started using this stuff and said he now changes them when he changes his oil.

[missprint]

you are not suppose to change the filter out every time it gets clogged you are suppose to be able to back flush it up to five times. I have had the filters get so clogged that the back flush only worked for about 10 hours but when you run into a batch of bad fuel or stuck in the water with out a fuel filter the backflush is great. you can go to the algea x web site and the have a photo directions on how to backflush very easy.

[jeannieb]

Tom, did you say you put water sensors on your Separs? My Volvo has a water sensor on the engine filter, you've put sensors on your primarys as well?

The filter clogging I'm experiencing is caused by algae, perhaps because I bought the boat new at the end of the season after it had been stored on a dealers lift with 1/2 tanks for most of the year. Once the Bio-Bore kicked in, well, I guess I should have been watching it more closely. Not a big deal...over the years I've been been through it all before. Still, every time I think diesels are getting better and better...it seems they're also getting a lot more fussy, technical and yeah, expensive to run. Something to be said for the simple reliability of the ol' "Leaktroits."

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts...

Steve

[Split Decision]

Steve

Cummins does not have sensors on the engine filters. Only the primary filters.

[code blue]

separs

I have been through all this with an 05cc28 but same engines. You need really clean fuel so I filter mine first so I know what goes in. I was getting about 70 hours out of em now I just change them with my 200 hour oil changes. I add bio bohr and conditioner periodically and drain 1 oz out of each bowl after each trip. I also disconnected the vent hose via a 3 way valve so while underway I suck air from inside. It is my experience that these common rails suck air like heck and move lots of fuel and it heats and cools and sucks more air. If it is rough and water splashes ove the vent then you have the potential for water in the fuel tank.
My suggestion: pump/clean/polish tank first then you will be starting from scratch. Also think about the vent, I do not know the 25 layout but that has cured all my problems for sure. I had both engines shut down from water in main fuel filter 20 miles out in 4-6 foot seas with separs and fuel filters laoded with water. No fun. I keep 2 sets of spare filters on board at all times. Rob

[jeannieb]

Thanks Rob. Having the fuel filter clog after only 60 hous on a new boat caught me by surprise. Since I was in 3-4' seas but close to home when it happened, I just motored back at reduced power.

Always a learning curve with a new boat. I'll start backflushing on a regular basis and I've ordered a few more filters in addition to the spares I've already got....hopefully that will take care of the problem. But I'll polish the fuel come next spring...and I'll be keeping a close eye on those engine vents as well.

Has anyone used the Algae-X conditioner, I think they call it AFC-705?

Thanks again,

Steve

[Split Decision]

Missprint

Here are the pics of the port and stbd filter setup. The stbd side was a little tight with the compressor and temp controls for the freezer boxes. Just had to move them slightly forward. The spacing has to be just right to get the connection to line up between the 2 filters. If I recall their was only 1/2" between the fittings where the hose slips on. If yo have any questions, just ask.

[Bullish]

Tom,

What do those gauges measure on top of your filters?

[Split Decision]

They are vacuum guages. They give me a heads up on the condition of the filters. As the filters start to get clogged up, the guages read a higher vacuum.