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While parking my 28 using the lower helm controls I found that the starboard gear lever wouldn't respond. The lever moved but wouldn't shift out of forward! after I'd bounced off the dock (luckily Mac builds them tough) I found that the upper station starboard lever was still in the forward position even though usually the upper and lower levers follow each other. When I returned the upper lever to neutral the levers followed each other as if nothing was wrong. This is the second time that this has happened and I've had the valves in the controls changed after the first time. Has anyone else had this problem?
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If I remember correctly, you have Volvo's, right? Which model and are does your boat have the EDC system?Bullish
2002 28
Volvo Kamd 44p's
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oops yes, I should have said! Volvo KAMD43 with outdrives. I'm not sure what the EDC system is but the system that I have has a cable linkage from the lower station to the gearboxes and a hydraulic system linking the upper and lower station, here's a pic of my controls.
I can't continue with these controls if I can't trust them but the fault can't be impossible to fix.Comment
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Sorry I won't be much help here. I have kamd 44's and they have the EDC controls....which I believe is much different technology than your's. I hope someone else can help.Bullish
2002 28
Volvo Kamd 44p's
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Assuming you have hynautic controls - I would call the manufacturer for advice. It's likely that you have hynautic hydraulic controls up till the hydraulics move a potentiometer (throttle controls) or move a coupling to the trans shift cable - at your slave(s). On my boat (2004 KAMD 300's) I opted for the hynautic controls. Both upper and lower stations look like yours and both are hydraulic. The hydraulic system is converted to a mechanical movement at my slaves. (2 slaves are in the ankle lockers (for my throttles) and two are under the fish boxes (for my gear boxes) Since upper and lower controls were in different positions it sounds like your lower control may not have moved any fluid when you tried to shift from fwd to neutral (but I'm no expert here). Might be something wrong with that control - or maybe air in the hydraulic lines might be the cause. In any event, that is a serious safety problem that needs to be correctly diagnosed and fixed. Hynautic is owned by teleflex marine. Here is a link to the part of the teleflex site that lists the hynautic controls.
I did not find a phone number on their site but they list this eMail address for tech support on the hynautics products.
[email protected]
Hope this helps.Last edited by TwinFin; 10-19-2006, 11:05 PM.Steve on Reel Screamer
2004 Carolina Classic 28Comment
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Thanks Steve, I'll give them a call. I definately haven't got any slave cylinders in the ankle lockers but I'll have to look under the fish boxes next time I'm at the boat.Comment
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They are hynautic controls. Pull your starboard fish box and look on the engine room bulkhead and you will see the reservoir. On top of the reservoir there is a pressure guage. It should have about 85psi in it (if not use a bike pump to repressurize up and check for leaks). On the side of the reservoir there is a sight tube -- it should be half to two-thirds full with antifreeze. Obviously if you have lost your fluid you should check for leaks at all of the control stations and fittings around the boat.
After/if the system is pressurized, crack the allen screws on each control and see if air escapes or if just no-bubbled fluid comes out.
Lastly, and most likely, the dill valve in that control station is most likely bad - On symptom is different control handle positions and/or sitcky motion. The dill valve acts like a bypass/reverse valve. The opening in this sucker is about the size of a pencil point. I have seen these valve stick and get fouled with a bit of trash that after years of use finds its way to the valve seat. Look at the diagram on the hynautic site and you will see how to change them out . . . Basically bleed the pressure down, remove/replace the valve and repressurize and bleed . . . You can order the valve from Hynautic or Mike at CC can get them for you . . .
I have not seen many problems with leaks and such on a non-new boat --- Once these controls are installed and 'tested' they pretty much go trouble free from an install related standpoint.
I hope this helps . . . .Comment
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That's very helpful information, thanks. It was the Dill valves that the mechanic replaced but he didn't seem to be very familiar with the Hynautic system.
You mention that anti freeze should come out and I found some info on another site stating that the fluid was a 50 / 50 mix of water / Glycol which is the same thing. Are you saying that these controls use an anti freeze mix rather than regular hydraulic fluid? If the mechanic used hydraulic fluid (I'll have to check with him) would that cause the problem? Also he made no mention of pressurising the system, maybe he didn't do that.
Tswann, if you have the time would you run me through the bleeding procedure please?
Also the controls have never really felt "positive", it's always been a little hard to feel the neutral position. When correctly bled should they feel positive?Comment
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Hydraulic fluid is not good in the system - Good 'ol antifreeze is the fluid of choice (50/50 premix is what I would use). Would that cause this problem??? Not likely right from the get go, but if hydraulic fluid was used I would drain and refill the system with antifreeze . . .
Bleed procedure is simple. As stated in my earlier post get down to your reservoir . . . And I am assuming you have low or no pressure on the guage
1. Check site tube for proper fluid lever (marks are indicated, but 1/2 to 2/3 full)
2. On top of reservoir remove dust cap from fill point.
3. Attach a bike pump (schroeder valve) to the port
4. Pump up to approx 85psi
5. Check all fittings at control stations (upper & lower), reservoir (on top or right side) and at shift slave cylinders (under starboard fish box against fuel tank wall) and at throttle slave cylinders (under port fish box against fuel tank wall) and at synchronizer, if equipped with one (usually in engine room, forward port side) -- for any leaks and snug as needed
6. At the upper station crack open each allen screw slightly, one at a time until pure antifreeze comes out. Initially you may actually here a puff of air and see sputters of aerated fluid . . You must do this on both the gear and trhottle controls . . .After you get pure fluid on each, re-snug the allen screw and work the control back and forth several times. . .
7. Repeat 6 at lower station
8. Check your pressure at the reservoir and 'top off' as needed
9. Repeat 6, 7 & 8 until you get no more air or bubbles coming out of the set screws and your controls are back to feeling smooth.The neutral detente on these controls can be a little subtle, but you will get used to it. If your pressure is low it will be even more subtle than normal.
10. Go fishing . . .
The neutral detente on these controls can be a little subtle, but you will get used to it. If your pressure is low it will be even more subtle than normal.
It is ok to see a little pressure loss over the season - Expansion/contraction, etc . . . If you see a 50% drop over a week or two or any other dramatic change than you look for leaks, split lines, etc . . . I keep a portable bike pump on the boat for emergencies . . .
That should about cover it. The location of the components listed in number five is probably accurate, but as space dictates when your boat was built things may have been moved slighlty . . . .
Also were all of the dill valves on the malfunctioning side replaced and both upper and lower??
If you need more info just let me know.Last edited by Tswann; 10-15-2006, 02:37 PM.Comment
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That's great TS, thanks so much. I'm in the UK now but I'll call the mechanic in Portugal tomorrow.
I had the Dill valves replaced on the upper and lower stations but I'm not sure how many there are on each station!Comment
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Outdrive slugish
Fluid and pressure is good 85psi. Starboard out drive is hesitating 10 to 15 sec after shifter has moved? Any suggestions. Is it linkage or something in out drive?Comment
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Delay
If you have an outdrive boat, and you have determined that the controls are throwing to the stops in reverse and forward, the most likely culprit is/are the shift cones . . .
Feel free to call/email me since you are local and we can help with your boat.Comment
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