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  • Main Swich

    We r having a problem with the main swich on the dashboard. I dont know if its coroshion or somthing else, we can flip the swich 3-4 times and it will work. any suggestions???
    It's a Classic

    CC25
    8.1gi

  • #2
    Most likely it is not the switch. That switch operates a solenoid switch in the engine room which compleats the 12 volt circut. The main switch should only be operated with NO LOAD on the circut meaning first switch on and last one off.

    Trace the problem quick because if it totally fails, you won't be able to lift the hatch to fix the solenoid. If this happens you have 1 chance to get it to work. Turn on all the breakers to put as much load on the circut as possible and then throw the main switch and it should fuse the contacts together so you can lift the hatch.
    Life is to short for an ugly boat

    sigpic
    2015 Enclosed Helm 35
    Tom

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    • #3
      we own a 2001 25 do you know exactly were the solonoid is located and where i can get a repacement??
      It's a Classic

      CC25
      8.1gi

      Comment


      • #4
        I've never seen the engine room on a 25 so I can't help you with that. Maybe someone with a 25 can help with the location. Give the factory a call and talk to Mac, Wade or Kieth on the replacement.
        Life is to short for an ugly boat

        sigpic
        2015 Enclosed Helm 35
        Tom

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        • #5
          In my experience it most likely IS the switch. I have been this route.......no go on the main switch. The prevailing opinion is that these solenoids are somehow weak. Well.......I've replaced 2 of them and both times (including the main switch) it was not the solenoid. First off you can raise the engine hatch with a battery pack plugged in to the cigarette plug in if all else fails. Next I would check your battery terminal connections particularly your house battery ground connection. If it's clean then next I would open up the helm console and disconnect the switch and take it out. Take a good look at the connections. One of mine was over crimped to the point of exposing the wires through the connector. I soaked everthing in Corrosion X, sealed up the connector with liquid electric tape and buttoned everything back up. Been fine so far. Your mileage may vary.......but I would start here simply because changing those solenoids is a pain in the ass unless your a midget with very small hands. Good Luck.
          Laukia

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          • #6
            This problem

            is very well known to those who know it well.

            I've changed my main solenoid twice so far. You described the failure symptom well. Several flips required to get your main light to stay on. You can probably feel which solenoid is firing by flipping your main switch a few times with a hand on the solenoids in your electronics box (assuming the 25 has a box in the engine room similar to that on the 28. In any event, Keith will be able to help you find it in the 25. I now keep a few extra solenoids on board.
            Steve on Reel Screamer
            2004 Carolina Classic 28

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            • #7
              Try jumpering across the switch with it turned off. If everything works ok it means that the power solenoids are functioning. If you are hearing a solenoid in the engine compartment clicking everytime you flip the switch it would mean that it is ok and the solenoid is probably bad. If the sound occurs intermittantly when the switch is thrown the switch is probably dirty/corroed. Operating quite a few times might clear it up. The switch only carries the load of the solenoid energizing circuit which is probably only about a couple of amps.

              There are two solenoids located on the rear starboard wall at the rear of the engine compartment. One parallels the batteries and one is for the house power which is the port battery.

              I would imagine that you have a intermittant switch. If you find that you can't get the power on to lift the hatch there is a by pass valve at the rear of the toilet compartment near the floor. That will allow the lid to be lifted manually (two man job).
              Advance, NC

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              • #8
                Yea I can hear the solenoid clicking every time, Im just not getting power. So we can tell its not the swich, sooo it has to be the solenoid. Thanks for all the info its a big help if anyone else has any other opinions ill keep checkin but hopefuly thats it.

                Does anyone know where I can get the solenoid should i just call mac (its not like i havent done it before)
                It's a Classic

                CC25
                8.1gi

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm sure you can get them from CC but they are probably a standard automotive type used for starters. There are some that have a lower coil drain current that are used in other applications so I don't know what these are. The automotive ones are just used for starting so the higher coil current drain isn't important.

                  Let us know what you find out
                  Advance, NC

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                  • #10
                    I had the same problem about 2 years ago replaced switch and solved problem until now and it is starting again. I am going to replace switch again because when I ordered the last one I got 2. It is not your every day switch.
                    I will post the results of changing switch a second time.

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                    • #11
                      Phone Layton's Boat Works in Edenton. I had solenoid problems with my 25 & they replaced them with a better brand than the one Mac installs at the factory. By the way, the solenoids are located on the aft wall of the engine compartment under the plexiglass panel. If I knew the brand name or type they used, I'd mention it here but since the Laytons replaced my solenoids, I've no trouble at all with my 12V electrical componentry.

                      Stuart

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                      • #12
                        Main switsh problems!

                        OK! so I've got the same problem with the main switch. It's on now and I leave it on, been doing this for the last few weeks-always make sure all other switches are off. Can any one tell me what averse effects this will have on the system?

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                        • #13
                          It probably wont' hurt the system but the current drain I would imagine is about 1.5a minimun. That's the lowes current drain solenoid of that style that I have seen. Others can range up to 6a for types I have seen for automotive starters.
                          Advance, NC

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                          • #14
                            (Hot Rod) if you leave the main on it WILL drain the battery after a while

                            Capt.Shaler how do u like the site

                            P.S. its Connor
                            It's a Classic

                            CC25
                            8.1gi

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Main Switch

                              I had the same symptoms as "Flying Colors"; so I called Keith at the factory to get his opinion which was to replace the solnoid. A friend (you will need help) helped me replace it recently and it was not easy to do because of the small space between the engines on my 28. However, it gives me piece of mind to know the job is complete. I think I'll pay some one to do the job next time.
                              Capt. Nicolls
                              Atlantic Coast Captains.com
                              \"L J EXPRSS\"

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