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  • throttle cable connection help

    One more question, while messing around and cleaning up in the engine room, i noticed the starboard throttle cable spun freely where it stops being red and becomes bare metal and connects to the engine throttle lever.

    It looks like it connects to the engine lever using a threaded shaft and nut to lock, and going toward the red sheathed part there is a smooth piece of metal that covers the threaded part...that smooth piece spun freely in both directions?

    is this by design? my curiousity is because I spun it a few times and left it thinking I was changing the adjustment, but I don't want to ignore it and find out that free spinning means it is close to falling apart and thus me losing throttle control on a future trip....I didn't bother messing with the port engine

    note---both engines have been running fine, I just noticed this while wiping the engines with a rag

    is there a website or directions on how to adjust the throttle cable?

    thanks

  • #2
    You are fine. The threaded part is the part that shouldn't spin. As to adjusting the "throw" of the cables keep two things in mind; you need to ensure that the throttle advances fully to the full throttle stop*and also comes back to the idle stop*. If you look under your control box at the dash you will also see the same adjustability on that end. The fine tuning of throttle (or shift) cables is one of trial and error. I have a personal peeve with throttle levers that are not exactly even on twins. You can spend a lot of time getting them perfect and it basically is a trial and error effort using small adjustments. Just remember that when you think you have it right, always verify that the fuel control lever on the fuel pump does in fact go to WOT and idle stop. The lock nut you see just secures everything once you have the throws right. Cables do stretch a bit over time so what was set right today might be a bit off after a season or two. On twins, the port cable is longer on these boats so both sides don't go out of exact adjustment at the same rate.

    Another advantage of electronic engines for sure.......

    * On mechanical engines you will see a threaded stop bolt with a locknut which provides a positive stop limit for the fuel control lever on both ranges (WOT and idle). Don't fool with the stop adjustment on the full throttle side unless you really know what you are doing as the WOT stop is factory set and often sealed. The idle stop is adjustable to achieve correct idle rpms if they are not within mfg's specs. You will typically see a range for idle rpms in your manual. Mine for example is 750 rpms plus or minus 25. Just understand that those stops (WOT and idle) mounted on the engine are NOT part of your cable adjusting efforts.
    Last edited by Patriot; 12-15-2007, 12:20 PM.
    NIGHTHAWK
    2001 CC 28
    Yanmar 300's

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