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Removing the shafts with Volvo 300s

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  • Removing the shafts with Volvo 300s

    I was thinking of haveing my shafts taken off just to have them checked along with my props. T he guy told me that they can not remove my shafts without lifting my engine he says it is tooo tight. He told me he had a few people come down to take a look and they all said the engine is too close to the trans and makke it to tight. He said thats what you get when you try to install big engines in small boats the space is very limited. Anyone ever have this problem?

  • #2
    I must be missing something here, what does the engine being too close to the transmission have to do with disconnecting the shaft from the transmission output?

    I'll take a look at mine tomorrow.
    2001 CC 28
    Yanmar 300's


    • #3
      I think he must be trying to say that the shaft log is too close to the transmission to allow the shaft to slip free of the flange. The transmission had better be close to the engine -- it is bolted quite firmly on to it! But what they are saying does not make a whole lot of sense. Even very big boats with walk-in engine rooms usually do not have a large distance from the flange on the transmission to the shaft log.

      The best thing is to call Keith or Mac at the factory -- they can tell you in two seconds whether there is a special procedure or some other factor at work that your mechanics do not know about.


      • #4
        Shaft removal

        The shafts can come out of the boat fairly easily.

        1. Remove props
        2. Unbolt all the bolts on the coupler and slide the shaft back to the log. If the log is to close for ease/working space undo the shaft log clamps and slide it back onto the log tube a little bit . . .
        3. Using a pipe wrench and a block of wood, hold the shaft from turning on the bottom outside of the boat. The block of wood will keep the end of the pipe wrench from dinging up your bottom paint.
        4. Large socket 3/4" drive is used to loosen the nut on the shaft end insude the coupling (cannot recall the socket size). This sucker is torqued on their so it will take some effort to get it loose. Leave the nut on the shaft but leave it backed off several threads. Use a sharpie to mark the shaft where the coupler ends so you have a visual when you go to put it back together.
        5. Now, get 3 or 4 bolts that are the same thread size as what is used to bolt the coupler together,but 1/2" to 1" longer. Put a socket that is to small for the shaft end nut inside the coupler but comes out past the end of the coupler about a 1/2" inch. Use your newly acquired bolts and bolt the coupler back together. Take care to bolt it evenly so that the pressure applied against the socket 'pops' the flange loose from the shaft.
        6. Undo your bolts, remove your undersized socket, remove the shaft nut, slide off the coupler and key.
        7. Slide your shaft out - you will probably get lucky and with the play in the flexible shaft log hose have enough clearance to squeak it by your rudder(s). If not you will have to drop the rudders.

        *** During reassembly you will need to get from us or the factory some of the yellow plastic hats that slide into the dripless seal to protect it from scarring when the shaft is pushed back into it (fumbling around with the threaded shaft end can mess up your dripless seal if you are not careful). After the shaft is back through you can cut them off with a pocket knife or slide them back and wire tie them in place for future use . . . Leaving them on the shaft does not hurt anything as long as they are not in the seal.

        If you are checking them for a possible bend or microfracture at the key way (i.e. you hit something and want to be sure) this can be done with the shaft in the boat. Clamp a dial indicator to the rudder and with the prop off you can check for a bend. To check the keyway use blue pentrating die - this will wick into any fracture and make it visible.

        If you need any more help or further detail feel free to contact me . . .


        • #5
          Thanks for the help