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How do you balance the drive shaft?

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  • How do you balance the drive shaft?

    Just replaced the outdrive do to corrision. I would like to balance the DS. Anyone have any suggestions? Also looking for a set of B5's if anyone has an extra set.

  • #2
    Jackshaft Balance

    Balancing is more of an art form than a science. Call Keith @ the plant and he can email/fax you the instruction sheet. Even when our service mgr does this it can be a frustrating experience, but with enough time and tinkering you can do it.


    • #3
      Hopefully I have attached the procedure?? You really should have some driveshaft balancing washers but you can make some from regular washers by just curving them.

      I'm getting ready to take my CC 25' drive shaft up to North East Distributors in Elizabeth City next week and have them look at it. They are the ones that build them for CC and I believe Albamarle. The Albamarle shaft is two piece with a bearing block in the middle. The lenght of the CC shaft makes it very critical to balance. The shaft wall thickness is a lot thicker thatn a normal drive shaft which helps some. I would put a two piece in with a bearing block but the fresh water tank is in the way. You need about 6" under the shaft to do it.

      I have balanced it and also had 70 West do it and it just won't totally balance out. It didn't have any weight on it and I cleaned the severe rust off and now it won't balance.

      A complete new drive shaft is around $1600 and they can replace the shaft only for around $1000 using you old CV joints which are expensive. It's a lot of money but I wan't it balanced right.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by deepwater; 11-07-2007, 01:49 PM.


      • #4
        Guy's thanks for the quick responce. I had it sand blasted and powdered coated. Now all I have to do is get it balanced. Clank,clank,clank I'll let you know how it turns out.


        • #5

          Even if the shaft is balanced correctly, it will still clank. I think that's the nature of the jackshaft setup. Balancing should help eliminate vibrations, but it's still going to clank.


          • #6
            The only way I got the clanking down to a tolerable level on my 25 was to raise the idle speed to the high end of the recommended range for the motor. The extra 50 rpms helped a lot. Try that if your idle is low.


            • #7

              Balancing on the jackshaft, as others have stated, is primarily to eliminate any vibration from the drive line at speed. The clanking at neutral idle is normal and is from the universal and is a result of no load on the drive line. It is true that a horribly unbalanced j/s will clank more at idle than a well balanced one.

              Jercdevil - now that you have blasted and coated the drive shaft it is as clean as it will ever be. Howerver, when you go through the balancing process and place your weights in the final position(s) you will need to sand throught your powder coating to epoxy the weight and bond straight to the shaft. Powder coating by nature is a smooth, non-porous surface and does not lend itself to a good strong bond between it and the weight. Of course after the weights are placed and glued, you can seal up the edges around the weight so you don't have corrosion start points again on your shaft . . .

              Keith helped us with some advice on the lsat one we balanced for a customer and I would defintately give him (or us a call) during the process so any questions you have can be handled as you go. He also advised us to wrap the epoxied down weight with banding tape as an additional level of security. Just make sure you are careful when working with the shaft - no loose clothing, and nothing in your shirt pocket that could fall out and on to the spinning shaft and ricochet back at you . . . .



              • #8
                Mine has a vibration right at the 3000 rpm range. Just a little above or below it goes away, I heard that most of them did this ,can that be taken out ?


                • #9

                  I owned 2 jackshafted Classics (a gas 28 & diesel 25) & became used to the metallic clanging at no load idle. I also experienced a vibration at a certain RPM (as CJO just posted). When the Layton's sold me on going to a 2 piece shaft both the clanging & the RPM specific vibration went away. It was well worth the conversion & loss of my small fresh water tank.



                  • #10

                    Do you routinely run in the 3000rpm range?? If so, then yes, it can be balanced out. If you don't stay in that range often I would just keep on fishing.



                    • #11
                      When you shut the engine down you should get a clank but usually if there is about a degree of missalignment from front to reat it will keep a little tension on the joints and it won't do much clanking at idle. I used a laser to set mine up when I installed the new engine. CC has something similar to do the same. I think Mac told me he used a pretty crude method to do it originally.

                      As far as the balancing I believe I was told by NE distributors (the mfg of the shafts) to use around 2600 RPM as the balance point but the procedure I posted had a higher value in it.

                      My shaft needed 5 weghts to get a useable balance on it. 70 West did the best they could and it was about the same as I got. They have had a lot of experience balancing them. The shaft is just not right so I'm going to take it to NE and let them look at it.