How many of you have replaced the sterndrive bolts?

[billh1963]

I was thinking about replacing my outdrive bellow (correct term?) over the winter and figured while I was in there I should replace the bolts. CCRider posted a process in an earlier thread about changing the bolts and I was wondering if anyone has done this and how difficult it is. Anyone have any experience they want to share?


Here is what CCRider posted earlier....

Interesting! I think I will take a closer look at my shield to make sure its not corroded.

Last night I stared at the inside transom until I got the courage to start taking some nuts off. And it started to become clear to me that its not too much effort to replace these.

I also received a return call from Keith this morning and he filled me in on a few details as well. He said to remove the transom shield, do the following:

1. unfasten the shifting cable from the top of the shield (inside)
2. make sure you have slack in the trim hydraulics lines
3. unbolt the steering linkage (easier if you remove live well)
4. remove the allen bolts that attach the jackshaft cv to the flange
5. remove the supports from the shield bell housing flange
6. remove the shield nuts
6. back out the shield 6 inches
7. remove the shield studs (from the outside)
8. replace studs and put it back together
9. torque nuts to 57 ft-lb
__________________
CC Rider
'94 Carolina Classic 25
Volvo 7.4l carb, DP

[Diesel]

Nuts and bolts

Bill,

I just removed the complete Volvo drive assembly from a 94 25CC. The outdrive is the DP-D1 model. Not sure what you have...

The transom shield is held on with studs that have a flange on them. So it is possible to turn the nut on the inside and the stud unscrew from the transom shield. However the stud will not come out because the flange will not pass through the hole in the transom. The shield must come off to get the studs out. On my application the nuts had severe corrosion so I had to keep using smaller socket and the impact wrench to get them to turn. Once the assembly was on the bench the steering bushings were shot and the trim cylinders were in poor condition. Plan to update the transom assembly but I can NOT get the pins out that hold the trim cylinder to the transom shield. Plan to boil the entire shield in hot oil to loosen pins....

While you have it down for repairs, take a look at the Zinc mounted on the bottom of the transom shield. You could still read the Volvo part number on this unit. It appears that the zinc was not working at all as the drive has corrosion. I took a grinder to the zinc and removed all of the oxidation on the surface to make it shine. If it still has a shine on it at the next service I will install an aftermarket Zinc.

Diesel

[billh1963]

Thanks, Diesel, for the reply.

From the looks of it my zinc is sacrificing itself as designed!

My boat has always been rack or trailer stored so the corrosion level on the outdrive and shield is low. That being said, the nuts/bolts on the inside of the transom are fairly well corroded and I'd like to do some preventative maintenance on everything before it becomes a problem.

My outdrive is a DP-D1 as well and uses the expensive and hard to change trim cylinders. The cylinder on the starboard has started leaking and I need to change it out. I bought one new one from Marine Parts Express and then found two new ones on ebay for less than the price of the one I bought from Marine Parts! I now have spares to last me a while.

Have you taken any pictures of your progress?

Also, I have a question for you on props. I took off the cone and pulled the outer prop with no problem. I have a problem of the inner prop. I have the special tool for the inner prop nut but can't break it loose. I'm hesitant to put too much force on it without knowing if it is a regular or reverse threaded nut? Which way does it turn to loosen?

Thanks!

[BarryNC]

Bumping this old post because as I was looking over pictures I've taken, and noticed I'm missing the nut off the top port transom shield stud. Guess I'm replacing them all now while the shaft is out....

[BarryNC]

So today my fishing buddy came over and we tackled the stud replacement. The top port was broke inside the hull, the middle port corroded in the outdrive and pulled the threads. The outdrive was being supported by the other four only. All backed out of the outdrive without heat. Though 3 had to be cut off from inside. The middle port did manage to go into the drive all be it very tightly. I'm sure the is a bit of cross threading and we didn't torque it to full specs. All others went it great. The support brackets got a quick grinder wire brushing and prime and epoxy. All in all I'm glad I replaced them.

Yall better check all instead of just the bottom.

[Pescadora]

What's full torque specs? Never seen a spec here.

I've switched to SS nylock nuts from McMaster Carr. Never had a problem coming off. But then '18/19 and '19/20 are the only two years she hasn't come apart.

I discovered in my (probably original) transom shield, all the studs had helicoil inserts in the aluminum casting.

For stud longevity, especially bottom two, adhesive heat shrink is the ticket.

[BarryNC]

What's full torque specs? Never seen a spec here.

I've read various posts where everyone agreed 50 to 55 lbs. That's what they got.