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CC 25 steering fluid fill, hull#69

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  • CC 25 steering fluid fill, hull#69

    Has the old school original steering reservoir with the psi gauge on top of the reservoir with the two small vertical sight areas on side of reservoir, where do you fill the system? The helm does not have a fill port right behind the steering wheel or even if I flip the helm open don't see any fill port behind console either. I finally did the shift cable which actually was not too bad and cleaned up some of the wiring plus replaced the drain hoses underneath fish box while it was out. The old cable was definitely shot, was able to twist in half where it connects to the outdrive looked like original cable.

  • #2
    The Hynautic reservoir. Pic below. The aluminum hex plug under the schrader valve is the fill point. But before you remove the plug, use a bicycle pump to test the PSI gauge on the top of the reservoir. Mine read 21 psi forever, even after I pulled the plug out. Moisture evidently got into that gauge over the years and froze its internals. I've often considered every darn thing aboard had to be bad when I bought my boat except for the engine. Like a post-grad level course in design, construction and repair of the Carolina Classic 25.

    So a bicycle pump because only a half stroke or two are required to re-pressurize the reservoir after sealing it up.

    If the level is very low, there may be air in the system. Extreme care is needed in purging. There are two needle valves with pinned nuts in the base of the reservoir. The valve stems look very robust but they are definitely not robust. The instructions for a fill and purge are on the side of the can and I'm going by memory here so follow those instructions rather than this post. The purge involves backing off the needle valves with their pinned nuts.

    My reservoir was half empty and the gauge was frozen. There was zero air pressure inside. But I was fortunate that no air had been taken into the system. The steering was rock hard and positive so I did not do this purge process. The air pressure is there to force oil into the lines whenever there is a tiny leak somewhere, thereby keep the steering sound until the reservoir runs out of oil. The system expects a human to check on oil levels once in a while.

    But what is important is this: DO NOT apply any significant force the robust-looking needle valves when closing them. Just make light contact with the seat. They are very fragile and will easily sheer off, rendering the entire valve system into junk. I did not have to learn this lesson the hard way. There are plenty on here who taught me from experience before I messed up. Passing that on.


    Hynautic RV67.jpg Hynautic RV67 bleed purge valves.jpg
    Last edited by Pescadora; 10-09-2020, 02:34 PM.
    "Pescadora"
    CC25 - Hull #60, 1995
    Volvo 8.1Gi-A, 1.78 DP-D1, C5
    Stainless Marine Exhaust
    w/ Heated Manifolds

    Comment


    • #3
      My helm started dripping one morning early. It was still dark, i was wondering why the floor under my feet was getting slippery. Turned on a light- drip, drip drip.
      It was the main seal on the pump. Did fish all day.
      It took a while to figure out how the bleeding process worked. Even with the purge directions in hand
      Attached Files
      1996 CC25
      8.1 Volvo GXI
      DPE-1.78
      C5 props

      Comment


      • #4
        That's a good document to have. Added it to my library and there found these two, which I forgot I had. Even more detail. Edited my post above accordingly.

        Attached Files
        Last edited by Pescadora; 10-09-2020, 02:36 PM.
        "Pescadora"
        CC25 - Hull #60, 1995
        Volvo 8.1Gi-A, 1.78 DP-D1, C5
        Stainless Marine Exhaust
        w/ Heated Manifolds

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the responses, I accidentally lifted the engine hatch too high and it hit the steering wheel and some fluid came out of main helm seal, not leaking now but have a seal kit and on the list of to do items. Fishing tomorrow so hopefully everything runs good. Now just have to figure out how in the hell to transport my awesome riggers to the ramp.....

          Comment


          • #6
            How have you been taking them.
            I put mine right up the middle, overhang the transom a bit. Not much w a cooler on the platform
            i try to put a life jacket under the wheel when lowering the helm. Using a cheap LVest the neck would go in the middle of the wheel
            1996 CC25
            8.1 Volvo GXI
            DPE-1.78
            C5 props

            Comment


            • #7
              Test ran last Sunday and placed riggers to the port of helm and then secured to fighting chair and ran line thru both aft choke cleats to secure with plenty of towels to pad. I did notice the riggers spreader wires did rub against upper rod holders so will have to be cognitive of rotating wiring away from rod holders

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