Suggestions for Maintenance

[Bullish]

Bullish is a 2002 28 with Volvo Kamd 44p's with 380 hours. I've done most of the maintenance myself including oil changes, fuel filters, impellers, belts, antifreeze, transmission fluid, overall visual inspections and paid to have compressor clutches changes last year.

For the most part I feel lucky that I have had no real surprises other than the compressor clutches failing last year. Since this is my first inboard boat, I'm not sure what other engine maintenance I should be aware of since the boat is now five years old.

Any suggestions you have for proactive maintenance from many of you who are more experienced would be greatly appreciated.

I dunked her in yesterday and she floats! Hoping to make this season as uneventful as possible.

Also, one specific question would be, should I check the exhaust elbow or mixing elbow for blockage from corrosion inside? I heard that rust can occur inside and block exit of exhaust gases and water once boat is five years old. Would love to hear from some guys that have my Volvo's or early Volvo models.

[backman]

Water systems

I'd consider replacing the thermostat and changing the coolant if its never been done.

I'd also consider doing the raw water coolers; unfortunately you have 4 on that engine and its not cheap.

I think valves on those engines were 800 hr's and injectors at 1200; so you don't need to go there.

My elbows were proactively replaced at 5 years when I had a head gasket leak; they were rusty, but not too bad. I'd visually inspect and leave it be unless you see obvious problems.

Obviously inspect all systems; steering, shift, rudders, etc. and have a look at the bilge pumps and hoses.

[Petty Cash]

How hard is the impeller change?

[Bullish]

I did the impeller change on Friday. Both were only two years old with about 175 hours on them. Both were cracked.

Once you are positioned in front of the engine, it's not too difficult. All you need is an 8 millimeter socket and a good set of plyers (use a pair designed for pipes). That will allow you to get the best grip on the impeller). You will probably damage the old impeller while taking it out because you really have to squeeze and pull. Make sure not to tighten the 8 mill. bolts too much when putting the impeller cover back on. They are very easy to break as I learned two years ago.

[Bullish]

Larry,

Raw Water Coolers?

What do they do and please provide some direction as to location?

[backman]

I meant the raw water cooling loop

You have 4 coolers; I forget the order but you have a heat exchanger; an aftercooler, an oil cooler and a transmission cooler. They all take heat of of various parts of the engines.

Since its salt both scale and corrosion can build up and lessen coolling efficiency over time. Hours wise you have no issues; but time wise you might have build up some corrosion that has to be cleaned out.

There are 3 alternatives - 1 - do nothing and keep an eye on engine temps; if your running 180-190, they are probably working fine. 2- run a conditioner through the raw water system that descales any buildup. My dockmate did it and knocked his Yanmar temp's down 10 degrees that way. 3- take each cooler off; dissasemble it, manually clean out all tubes and replace all gaskets.

[Bullish]

Got it. I will add the conditioner to correct any scaling. Let me know if anyone recommends a specific brand of conditioner. Thanks Larry.

[code blue]

impellars

They say never use pliers for you could fracture parts of the rubber and send them in to the system and plug things up. A better alternative is to buy a prop puller (about $50) and this makes the change a piece of cake. I always use two paltsic straps to conform the new impellar to fit easier into the casing and also sand down groves and build up on metal to allow snug fit and corrosion block grease in a small amount to bolts and spline. I change mine yearly but use the boat yeat round and have 500 hours on it since jan 06. CC28 05. Rob