Shaft coupling bolt

[Capt B]

On a 28' with a 1.5" shaft, does anyone know the size socket required to remove the nut in end of the shaft coupling?

[CC28_NJ]

Just did mine today

1 5/8" For that coupling nut, 9/16" for the 8 bolts. I'm replacing my shaft seals and I just got done removing them. Also replaced my tower power/control tubes today (I guess thats what you call them, the gray flex tubes) . NOT FUN. especially if you have a lot of electronics up top.

Nick

[code blue]

shaft seals

nick, what year is your boat and why are you changing the shaft seals? I assume you have dripless ones? I have an 05 and that is my main worry over all. I just cannot see how to get at those nuts from the engine box, how do you do it and when?

[CC28_NJ]

Code Blue

I'm changing them because they are not dripless anymore. Basically they leak, Not a very bad job at all. My port shaft leaked the most, not when Idle only when in gear and the more rpms the more it would spray. Keith sent us the new ones they use and I was ready to reinstall on saturday, but I noticed that the port shaft was really wore, so Keith is sending us a new one. Hope to have it all back together this weekend. While I'm at it I'm going to repack the rudder shafts, and thinking of changing the cutlass bearing. it's not too worn but with the new shaft and all, figure I might as well replace everything.

As a note where the bearing wears on the shaft, Keith said we could cut the boot and move it either fore or aft to get another seal, but this shaft was so worn I'm to afraid to do that so we just ordered a new one.

Boat is a 2001 28.

Nick

[CC28_NJ]

Forgot to answer last part

I'm not sure what engines or trans you have, but in my 01 with 250's and twin disc I have room to reach in on top of the trans with a 9/16" wrench and losen the nuts on the coupling, I can only do one at a time and spin the shaft each time, then I take my deck coolers out and climb in there and I used an impact gun and took the 8 bolts on the coupling out. Slide the shaft aft till you can get the 1 5/8" socket inside the coupling and break it lose and take off. Then slide the shaft and bolt the coupling back together with at least 4 bolts and pull the shaft out. It should pull right out. I had one guy outside underneath helping me pull the shaft back and forth. When you slide the shaft back as far as you can, or until it hits the rudders you can losen the hose clamps and pull the shaft seal and boot off. And basically just do the reverse to put it back together. However If your in deck boxes don't come out your not going to be able to do it easly.

I hope I answered your question. If not let me know and I could explain better. But you will not have to replace seals unless you suspect a problem. And always make sure your cooling hose is not blocked, especially where it comes off the trans cooler. I clean my coolers at least twice a season, always find calcium or zinc deposits in there and I do not want them blocking that little hole for the seal cooling water.

Nick

[CC28_NJ]

CaptB

Was wondering how you made out with your shaft seals? We finished ours ready to put her in next week. Had to replace the port shaft though. It was worn pretty bad. Bad enough that we didn't want to take a chance with it, had Keith send us a new one. He had to order it thought as the ones in the newer boats are 6" shorter. We found that out the hard way. Also replaced the cutless bearing, not a bad job at all, provided you have a sawzall, Forget about pressing them out.

Just curious.

Nick
01 28.

[Capt B]

Nick,

I replaced the dripless shaft logs two weeks ago - not a problem at all. Had to drop both rudders (I replaced those seals) that was probably the worst part of the project. I just finished alligning the engines last week-end. I had the bottom sandblasted in the fall, so I have to wait for two 60 degree days in NJ to put on three coats of the Pettit barrier coat. Hopefully the weather will clear in a week or two and I'll have the opportunity to put her in soon.

[CC28_NJ]

Glad to hear everything went ok. Oh yeah I forgot about the rudders, yes they were a Pain to drop. Also repacked those seals, they didn't need it, but piece of mind anyway. Just curious why you had to realign the engines. And also curious how you did it.

Thanks

Nick

[Capt B]

I removed the Volvo 41P's that were originally in the boat and replaced them with Cummins 4 BTA's a year ago. I did the install by myself - since my boys were tied up with thier new borns, and after everything was completed, I noticed the vibration isolators were almost bottomed out - so I wanted to correct it this winter. I lifted both engines; removed the engine mounts, and redrilled the mounting holes and reinstalled them , raising the engine about 3/4' - so they would be in the center to top of the isolators. I also removed the aftercoolers, serviced them, and put just about everything back together. Hence - I had to re-allign both engines - which we just did. After it is in the water for a week or so - we'll double check the allignment.