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  • Extra fuel in a drum

    I am thinking of putting one of those 55 gallon plastic drum on my boat , filling it diesel and putting a tee valve with a open and close position. This way when I am running out the fuel will be sucked out of the drum threw the breather hose. What do you think will it work?

  • #2
    I wouldn't mess around with anything like that - I have a 50 gallon pillow tank from ATL - with the tie down straps - running offshore - you definitely need the tie downs. I then installed a 12V outlet under the gunnel near the switch for raising the engine hatches and have a 12V pump with a SS impeller that I simply plug into the outlet when we get to the canyon - and drain the pillow tank. It takes less than 10 minutes - I fold the pillow tank up, put it in it's case and store it between the port seat and the tackle station.
    Capt. B

    Now a 2014 28' Regulator
    Wall, NJ

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    • #3
      Me too

      I used a drum twice and didn't like

      1. weight so high in the cockpit
      2. fuel transfer was complex and messy. Pints if not quarts of diesel spill left the boat smelling all trip.
      3. Drum was a P.I.A. to stow afterwards

      I too use an ATL 50 gallon bladder w/ alligator clips to a spare battery I bring for my Hydroglow. I stow mine as well as the Jabsco pump in 1 fishbox. I drip a teaspoon at most in the transfer.

      capt B - I am curious about the tiedown. I used it a couple times and did not like it as there is no place in a 28 cockpit to get a proper tiedown which pulls the collar down over the fill pipe as opposed to sideways. I did not like the stress the collar put on the fill pipe.

      I have settled on the simplest approach, orient the empty bladder lengthwise down the cockpit w/ drain spout at the transom. Fill and go.

      The bladder will not roll or move while the boat is running. After 2.5 hr's I attach the pump w/ a 2' hose from bladder to pump and perhaps an 8' hose from pump to fill cap. Wrap a rag around the hose and fill cap and you can transfer while underway at 20 knots.

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      • #4
        If I put a T valve int the line that is the breather line for the fuel tank and attach it to the drum. By the way I have a long copper pipe that runs to the bottom of the drum and attach it to the hose as I am running the boat out it will suck the fuel out of the drum keeping my main tanl full until the drum gets empty. I have not tried it yet buy I think is will be easier and safer than pumping fuel into my fill cap while being in open waters. I will strap the drum near the base of my tower. Still working on straping it down. I also forgot that the T will have a on off switch so I can turn it off when I am Done with the drum. I plan to store the drum up in the tower when it is empty.

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        • #5
          I really think that one of the questions on the captains test was, can you carry fuel in containers that are not approved by USCG. And the answer was no. But that may have been for gasoline only. I got my license almost 25 years ago so it is a little foggy.
          Might want to check
          1997 CC28

          Brian

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          • #6
            I put two of the tie downs onto the rear cleats, wrap another one around my tackle station and the other around the cooler/seat on the starboard side. I try to keep the bladder against the engine "step" to keep it as far forward as possible. I also keep the valve in rear - on the starboard side. I have found that without tying the bladder down - it does "roll" quite a bit.
            Capt. B

            Now a 2014 28' Regulator
            Wall, NJ

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            • #7
              try lengthwise and back towards the livewell

              Its surprising but with the long axis of the bladder oriented bow to stern and the bladder back against the lovewell is stays put and behaves and does not need to be strapped down.

              I dock next to a guy who is a Woods Hole scientist and who builds underwater ROV's for a living. They use ATL tanks in vessels they build.

              He says the Kevlar ATL tanks are indestructible with the exception of the fill pipe and collar and that horizontal strain on that pipe/collar connection is a sure way to kill the bladder before its time. he also says that if it is filled to capacity and strapped down w/ deck cleats the pull on the collar around the fill pipe is distributed and the bladder will last forever.

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              • #8
                I USE TWO 30 GALLONS DRUM THAT I GOT A THE CAR WASH (BLUE PLASTIC) $10.00each CLEAND OUT REAL GOOD. 2-NON SKID MATS $5.00 each 2-RATCHET STRAPS FROM HOME DEPOT $10.00 I WENT ON LINE TO NORTHERN TOOL .COM BOUGHT A 12VOLT TRANSFER PUMP $159.00 PUMPS 10-GALLONS PER MIN. I USE A BATTERY PACK FOR JUMPING A CAR $50.00 AT PEP BOYS. STRAP TO EACH TACKLE STATIONS ONE ON EACH SIDE

                I FILL ONLY 25 GALL IN EACH NEVER SPILLED A DROP I TAKE A PAD OR A TOWEL AND A GARBAGE BAG FOR THE HOSE AND PUMP WHEN DONE IT'S GET SEALED UP NO SMELL NO DRIPS TOTAL COST $239.00 WORKS GREAT

                ONE THING I AM NOT TO FOND OF THE FACT OF ALL THE EXTRA WEIGHT ON MY 28 ALL GEAR, CREW, ICE, BAIT, THE 50 GALL PUT MY FISHBOX DRAINS UNDER WATER ONLY AT THE DOCK SO I ONLY FILL UP AND GO AND I USE THE BATTERY PACK FOR GLOW LIGHTS AND A BACK UP
                GO DEEP!!!!! TAKE A KID FISHING......

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                • #9
                  Went to the canyon last week I took a 55 gallon plastic drum filled with diesel I put T valve into the vent line and ran a hose into the top of the drum to the bottom after running for about 2.5 hours the drum was sucked dry with no mess by the time I got to the canyon I had 3/4 of a tank of fuel. We took the hose out of the drum and placed it on the tower. What a set up and it sure beats getting a bladder for $750.

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                  • #10
                    I would rather be safe than sorry - with all of the money spent on gear and fuel - the $600 for a pillow tank is minimal.
                    Capt. B

                    Now a 2014 28' Regulator
                    Wall, NJ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bladder Tank

                      I just purchased a ATL bladder tank (75 gallon) and also a transfer pump from Northern Lights I did not get to use it yet but was wondering where have you guys tied the bladder tank tie downs to? I am not sure if you can tie to rear cleats and not sure about the front tie down location. I would hate to have to install cleats to my deck for this tank. Any ideas?

                      Also to the gentleman who used the 12 volt pump from Northern Lights how did it work for you, I beleive that I bought the same one had not gotten a chance to use it yet. I have a 28' CC with tower.

                      Thanks
                      Last edited by Fin Addict; 10-02-2007, 03:48 PM.
                      Fin-Addict
                      Capt. Bobby G.

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                      • #12
                        I have a 50 gallon bladder and bing the bladder as far forward as possible - so it is against the engiene hatch. I then put the collar around the fill pipe in the fuel bladder and put the rear two tie downs to the rear cleats - I then circle the cooler on the starboard side and the bait prep station on the port side with the other two tie down straps. I've never had a problem doing it that way. One thing you want to make sure of - put the gate valve on the bladder tank in the rear on the starboard side. I then ran a 12 V outlet from the battery switch on the starboard side and terminated it under the gunnel by the engine hatch switch. I use it for the fuel pump to empty the bladder tank, then for the hydroglow light while tuna fishing.
                        Capt. B

                        Now a 2014 28' Regulator
                        Wall, NJ

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