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  • Where is your tranducer

    I have 28 CC with a furuno navnet system when I have my depthfinder on after going about 8 knts I loose my screen and my depth. The other day I was on my freinds Henriques who has the same furuno set up. He was doing about 20 knts and he was showing depth the full time while underway. I send my furuno to factory to get upgraded and they said eeything was fine I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem or is it just me.

  • #2
    I had my 600w Airmar ducer hooked to a Furuno 582, the ducer was installed just about directly under the port motor gear in the engine room. Never lost bottom, even @WOT down to 3' of water.
    "Pelagic" 2006 Classic 32

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    • #3
      If you are loosing bottom, it most likely is not installed right. It seems to be getting turbulance and air bubbles on the face. It should be 2-3 deg lower on the back side to keep water pressure on the face. If the front is lower then you will get the bubbles. The only time I loose a reading is when I cross a boat wake.

      It is also possible that there is something in front of it to cause the turbulance.
      Life is to short for an ugly boat

      sigpic
      2015 Enclosed Helm 35
      Tom

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      • #4
        I have a Furuno 1650 from 2002 and the thru-hull transducer (don't remember which model) is installed under starboard fish box. Considerably further back than under the engine but seemingly, far enough away from shafts and rudders.

        I can't get a reading past 8 knots either. I've been disappointed about that.

        Reel Addict.-Where is your transducer located?
        Bullish
        2002 28
        Volvo Kamd 44p's

        sigpic

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        • #5
          I've never had that problem........

          Furuno FCV 582L fishfinder, 525 ST-PWD TM MULTI transducer



          Laukia

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          • #6
            'Ducer Placement

            The transom mount pictured is too high. I had the same ducer infront of my Simrad CE33 on my 28 and never lost bottom but it was a tad closer to the V (drain plug) and much lower (the bracket with the 4 screws that attaches to the hull on mine had the lowest corner right at the bottm edge of the hull and the ducer itself slid to its lowest position). Like others have said the leading edge has to be slightly higher than the trailing edge. Now with your current set up their is turbulent water/air etc hitting your ducer . . . .

            Bullish:

            Under the stbd fish box is right in the shaft line and that is a very noisy spot for and a place we would probably not place one. Is your through hull on a high speed block?? Is it in the prop pocket?? If you give a few more details I would be happy to help.
            Tres

            http://www.virginiabeachboats.net
            http://www.specialtyproducts.net

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            • #7
              I don't know if it is a high speed block. This is one piece of equipment that I did no research on and trusted the electronics guy that I hired when I bought the boat 5 years ago.

              Best way to describe it is that it is towards the front of the starboard fish box and a fair distance from the shaft or prop. I would think it should get good water there, except that the raw water intake might only be two feet (or less) in front of it (now that I think about it).

              Anyhow, it protrodes down about 2 inches and is flat on bottom but the leading and trailing edges are tapered like a football. I'll have to find out the model and ask you guys if anyone else has the same transducer.

              I'm sort of stuck with the location of it now, aren't I?
              Bullish
              2002 28
              Volvo Kamd 44p's

              sigpic

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              • #8
                Ducer

                That is a high speed block . . . That should be removed and the transducer placed elswhere. We had one recently that was in a similar location and was causing boat performance issues as well as poor bottom holding. We took it off with a portable band saw and lots of effort and then reglassed the hole in the bottom shut and moved the transducer to an appropriate location with no block . .

                The 2" protrusion is the block itself (the transducer is mounted 'inside' the block). On the bottom of a planing hull, behind the engine pickup and in/near the shaft line it is getting nothing but turbulent water. You mentioned that up to about 8 knots it is ok -- Well 8 knots is the approximate hull speed of CC28s; once she goes on step and towards planing mode your water gets 'messy' around the 'ducer and bye-bye bottom picture.
                Tres

                http://www.virginiabeachboats.net
                http://www.specialtyproducts.net

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                • #9
                  Now that my boat is in the water for this year, I'll have to deal with next winter/spring and make a decision on what to do. Thanks for sharing what you did.
                  Bullish
                  2002 28
                  Volvo Kamd 44p's

                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    I spoke with the guy who install the electronics for the CC dealer in NJ he told me that a new kind thru hull transducer just came out and that it would be perfect my boat. He had talked to Mac about it and was waiting for mac to get back to him.

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                    • #11
                      Do any of you guys have any experience with the in-hull transducers? I am looking at buying a Northstar M121 with a 1 kw in hull transducer. If any of you guys have experience where should it be place, do they work well?

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                      • #12
                        transducer mount

                        Mine is in the same place as Laukia's is. It was mounted there by Mac. I was looking into a high end through hull transducer at the time (late 2003) but Mac was not keen on the through hull mounting. Big hole & big object (fairing block) sticking out the bottom of the boat. Mac wanted me to wait and install it myself after delivery if I insisted on the through hull. That was argument enough for me to go transom mounted. My sonar transducer (part of my Raytheon package) has worked well for nearly 3.5 years now - but my paddle wheel is toast. No longer spins freely. I don't miss it. Got GPS for that.
                        Steve on Reel Screamer
                        2004 Carolina Classic 28

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                        • #13
                          Anyone tried the Airmar thru-hull tilted transduxer? I have a bronze one on my Aquasport and it works great!

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                          • #14
                            transducer

                            I too have a 28 and have a furuno 582L with high speed ferring block and can read bottom to 600ft up to 6 knots. Can read bottom in 50 ft near wide open. Why is this set up so wrong? Airmar makes that new low profile one and am thinking about switching to it because it a 1Kw model. I suspect THat block may caus some excess drag but does anyone know for sure? I would think ablative bottom paint would cause more drag as a whole as well.
                            Code Blue

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                            • #15
                              Blocks

                              On the 28CC there is limited space where you can get clean, clear water to the ducer on the bottom of the boat, so placement becomes an issue. The planing nature of the hull also does not like protrusions -- they do create a little drag but have other consequences. For the placement of a block, that is large by contrast to the transducer itself, there are limited places where the bottom is in the water at all times: Right in front of the engine intakes - I have seen this and it caused engine temp issues because of disturbed water to the engine stainer and it only read some of the time; In the Prop pocket - didn't work for @#$! and of course sent dirty water to the prop and dropped a little speed; Aft, off center near rudders - worked great at hull speed and acted like a mini-tab while running . . . . These are just what we have seen come to us on 28s bought used that we were asked to correct. There are others that I have heard about but not seen.

                              Going back a few years, in-hulls were new and without much of a track record and transom mounts worked (albeit some better than others). Now with the 1Kw in-hull ducers working so well and a several Airmar transom mounts that have a good track record, why would one tempt the gods and go with a high speed block when the builder won't do it on his own boat (espcially on a new boat where you are not inheriting someone elses problem)???

                              There are a few options for mounting through hulls on 32/35s that don't require a block -- Obviously there is more real estate available. Temp sensors will still need to be on the transom or through the hull (spray rail for the 32/35 is a good place too), but they are not as sensitive to placement and are small and low profile.

                              On my personal 28 I had an Airmar P59 transom mount behind a Simrad CE33. I could read bottom up to about 300' at all speeds and bottom at troll down to about 1750'.

                              As a new dealer this has been our single most frustrating question/issue to handle. Some of our customer/friends select electronics installers that don't ask any boat specific questions, or just do an installation a certain way because that's how they have always done it . . . We have one installer that we use (when we are asked to make a recommendation) for boats that are rigged at our place that has spent some time on the phone with Mac/Keith and his installs always work flawlessly.

                              Our biggest resource as CC owners are the Privotts themselves. We can choose to solicit their input on a question and they will tell us if something universally has been found to not work well . . .
                              Tres

                              http://www.virginiabeachboats.net
                              http://www.specialtyproducts.net

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