Rigging Outriggers

[Split Decision]

I need to rig my outriggers and was wondering if anyone used the Hal Lock pulleys on the bottom to stop the line from creeping. Are they any good or is there something better?

[BLUE-MOON]

Tom,
I just set up mine with the HAL-LOC's. I have heard good and bad. The bad was mainly that they break.
I have a question for you about the center rigger. I am not sure how I am going to set it up with regards to where to position the base pully/bungy. The tower section with the rod holders is to high and I don't like the idea of attching it to the tower ladder. I am thinking about making some kind of spring pully sytem that would attach to the center of the tower and drop down low enough to allow for control from the cockpit. How are you setting up yours?

Steve
BLUE-MOON
CC 32 #5

[Split Decision]

Steve

I can't help you out on the center rigger. I have the mount but did not get the rigger. I had Mac weld on some brackets for a Greenstick that I am installing and it will block the center rigger so I won't be able to use it.

[Graceland]

They will stop creep but like posted earlier they also break. I have a set made by Tightlines tackle. They are just your regular rollers but are mounted on braided rope that is fished inside it's self to act like a pair of chinees handcuffs. This allows for adjustment but also set the lines nice and tight with no stretch when you cinch it down.

[Split Decision]

Do the pulleys break or the shock cord?

I plan on removing the shock cord and make an adjustable tensioner.

[Graceland]

The pulleys break. The set up I showed you can be done using a braided dock line, a fid and a rigging needle. Pull the core out of the dock line, use the fid to fish the line into it's self and back out on the pulley side, and then knot the end of the rope so it can't go back into it's self. On the snap swivel side fish the line into it's self and use the rigging needle to sew it together so it stays staionary and doesn;t back out.

[Split Decision]

Well I just ordered the Hal-Locks. I think I will take off the shock cord and try something like Graceland uses. It seems simple enough. If the pulleys keep breaking I guess I will go to plan B whatever that is.

Time will tell.

Blue Moon, where did you attach the Hal-Locks?

I want to put it someplace out of the way so I thought that I would put a strap eye behind the tower leg for when they are in use and another in front of the leg on the cabin side to get it out or the way when not in use.

[CClassic28]

Tom,

Rather than using the shock cord I have 2 peices of braided dacron. One is the proper length when the riggers are in the upright position, the other is the length in the fishing position. When not in use, I just rap the "fishing position" cord aroung the pulley and clip it back on itself.

I find I get better hooksets without the stretch of the cord.


Chris

[Split Decision]

Chris

What do you use to raise the riggers?

I was thinking of just tieing a rope to the knuckle arm to pull it up. I never had a boat with the riggers mounted up high on the tower. They were on the cabin sides so you could lift them standing on the gunnel.

[Graceland]

Most guys use a black dockline to make it look all pretty.

[BLUE-MOON]

Hi Tom,
I mounted the standard snap connector on the side of the hull, just under the rub rail, about in line with the begining of the non-skid surface on which the rod holders are mounted. This works well for the down position. For now in the up position I just wrap the shock cord around the mount hub of the top rod holder on the ladder of the tower. I was originally thinking that I would install a second snap connector on the side wall of the helm area, near the air intakes, for the up position. However because the base hinges of the outriggers are mounted so high on the tower, there is something like a 3' delta between the down and up positions, which eliminated that possibility.
One thing with regards to the shock cord. I often fish on my brothers 37' Bertram, and a few years ago he had removed the shock cords from his riggers. Well we had a decent size schooly tuna hit a lure on his high gear hard. With out the shock cords absorbing some of the stress, the load caused the top end of his rigger to break off. Granted the rigger was original equipment on a 1987 boat and the tension on the release clip could have been an issue. However he switched back to the shock cords and has not had another issue.

Steve
BLUE-MOON

[CClassic28]

Tom,

That is exactly what I have done. I did purchase 3 strand 1/4" in black and braid a loop on one end and cut to length, and a finished end on the other. It looks real pretty

Chris

[Split Decision]

Thanks guys for all the ideas.

I like Gracelands system with the braid for adjustment but since Blue Moon said that their is a 3' diff between the up and down position the tag end would have to be 6' long. Might be a pain in the ass.

Maybe I will try Chris's system with 2 seperate cords for the up and down position. That way it will only have to be 3 1/2 ft. I will letyou know how it works out.

Chris, how did you keep the line used to pull up the riggers from sliding down the pole away from that joint?

[CClassic28]

Tom,

Actually, the line is connected to the base of the outrigger pole where it enters into the holder itself. I can reach the bottom leg of the knuckled joint to release the rigger while I am pulling on the line to bring the rigger back upright.

I hope that you are able to follow what I am saying because as I am typing I'm confusing myself


Chris

[Split Decision]

Chris

I know what you are saying but I do not know if I can reach that bar to release it. I might have to tie the rope right to that bar.

I will check it out this weekend.

Thanks